That’s right. Learn how to get your paintball team sponsored now. Stop paying full price… stop paying at all even! This paintball sponsor article will teach you and your team the fundamentals on how to start up a team and the correct method to obtain paintball sponsors.
We’ll be covering the following steps in order to succeed in getting your team sponsored followed by a simple forumula to be guided by:
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Yes… We crossed the line and want to show you how to make your own potato gun. Please, do not tell mother.
If the thought of firing a poor potato into a hard surface and having it disappear completely then this article is for you. Some of these plans could be adapted to fire paint mortars of various types. Please use your head and keep researching before you build your first one. If you do not have a solid understanding of the construction materials and how to work with them in a spud launcher then PLEASE don’t attempt to make any of these. |
| Two excellent paintball gun reviews have been posted on the Tippmann A-5 and the Tippmann C3. The reviews are well equipped with tests, pictures, specs, and even videos. Feel free to comment on the articles and even submit your own opinions concerning the two markers.
Keep your goggles on 🙂 |
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For the Autococker marker owners out there, here is a very detailed and step-by-step instructional video on how to time the Autococker marker. He covers it pretty well, but if you have any questions about your cocker in reference to timing, feel free to ask me. Enjoy.
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The JDS LPR is one of the most highly-acclaimed LPR’s on the paintball market. We’ve published a review that tests out the STD JDS LPR for the Angel paintball gun. The results are remarkable. If you own an Angel, Proto, Matrix, Freestyle, or Intimidator, we would definatley recommend you consider looking over this review… It can make all the difference to the performance of your paintball marker. Make sure you check out the video demonstration of the consitency of the Low Pressure Regulator. |
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| Pump guns are their own animal altogether. They do deserve a spot special in the ranks. Typically the markers are far more accurate than their open bolt rapid firing cousins. These guns are also much harder to modify because minimal research has been done on them. A bulk of the research that is done on markers is done for semi-automatics. If you are a pump marker “stock class” player then you know the beauty in the “one shot, one kill” statement. And few things are more humorous than being able to stop a machine gunner with one well placed shot. After all it does only take one mark to take them out.
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Now we all know the less air you use the more shots and better consistency you get this is a quick guide to help you get the most of your fills.
What you need:
Step one
Turn your velocity all the way out. Then turn it two turns in.
Step two
Turn your regulator and LPR (if you have one) as far out as possible
Step three
Slowly turn the regulator up a quarter turn then take two or three shots, make note of your velocity
Step four
As soon as the velocity starts to go down then turn the reg back 1/8 and your set to go
*NOTE* To time the LPR on an Autococker, you hold down the trigger so the back block is back, then turn it until it hits the cocking rod, then just turn it like 1/4 turn after that to be good.
Simple and sweet
Look this video can never get old and I can’t help but share this with my fellow paintballers. Take it as lesson to never shoot your paintball gun at any human being or animal. Only cats. Enjoy the video.
There are many levels of the Spyder. These are usually divided up into the groups of markers that have mechanical triggers and electronic triggers. But let’s not forget the pump action Spyder Hammer. These markers are manufactured by Kingman International. We won’t go into heavy duty history here of the evolution of the Spyder.
The Spyder has become one of the most copied body types on the paintball market. This is the reason behind the vast amount of upgrades and available modifications available to a new Spyder owner. This also applies to those who are owners of Spyder clones. Most of these markers do use the same parts and many times the parts are interchangeable.
The Kingman Spyder semi-automatics are a stacked tube design. They are also a open bolt blow back type. The blow back part means that part of the gas expelled during firing is used to re-cock the bolt and make it ready to fire again. The basic difference between an open bolt marker and a closed bolt marker is the starting position of the bolt before firing. The open bolt starts with the bolt in the rear position behind the feed tube and a closed bolt starts forward of the feed tube. Several sources claim that closed bolt markers are more accurate than open bolt markers. We say if the physics involved apply to real world guns in their action then it also applies to paintball markers. Typically a closed bolt “bolt action” rifle is much more accurate than it rapid firing counter part of the same caliber.
Lets get on with the mods. The Kingman Spyder is a durable reliable marker right out of the package from the factory, however it has some issues that you can address to make it perform much better.
Rumor has it that Dye Precision will not be releasing the DM7. They will end production at the DM6. Most paintballers agree that the gun can’t get much smaller as it is. However, since this is still indeed a rumor a few paintballers disagree with the rumor due to the fact that Dye would still produce large amounts of sales even if the gun does not have any incredibly noticeable upgrades. People pay for looks in my opinion, so I would not be surprised if the Dye Matrix generation never was abandoned. Of course, it does make sense if their line did cease. There are also rumors that Dye may start picking up the “Etek idea”. Dye is supposedly releasing a low end paintball marker this year at the World Cup.
